The LBD: One of Life's Necessities

 

J. Mendel LBD available at Richards of Greenwich

Close your eyes and picture a beautiful woman in a Little Black Dress – the uniform of New York.Chances are you conjure Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in the film of the Truman Capote’s classic, “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.”

The iconic opening scene – featuring a pre-dawn, whippet-thin Audrey, dressed in perfectly cut Givenchy, long gloves, dark glasses and a swirling up-do – is seared into our consciousness.

Hepburn/Holly’s LBD is her armor, her art and her artifice.

So what is it about an LBD that demands space in every woman’s closet?

• LBDs are great cheaters – It can be as difficult to spot an inexpensive LBD as it is to detect a cubic zirconia at a glance. With haute couture runway being copied and reproduced for the H&Ms and Zaras of the world within weeks, all you need is your best accessories, good posture and a little attitude.
• 
  
• LBDs are versatile – You can easily segue from day to night, simply by swapping daytime pumps for nighttime Jimmy Choo platform sandals. Leave your tote behind and pull out your YSL clutch, add a pop of bling and you are good-to-go to an event or dinner.

• LBDs are good travelers – An LBD looks as chic in L.A. or Monaco as it does in New York. If it’s knit or jersey, pack it well in tissue, and chances are you won’t even need to steam it on arrival.

• LBDs are timeless – As an investment, a good LBD is as solid as a savings bond. I still wear a Dolce & Gabbana sleeveless wool turtleneck sheath dress I bought back in 2002. Why would I part with it? It looks as fabulous and stylish as the day I bought it. At this point, it costs pennies per wear.

• LBDs are brainless – It may be the one item in your closet you put on with complete confidence that requires no second-guessing. If you have ever lamented the ease with which men get dressed every day, well, the LBD should give you some comfort.

Is there a menswear equivalent to the Little Black Dress? Of course.

A classic navy blazer and gray trousers can gracefully take a man almost anywhere. Since it is a staple in most men’s wardrobes, it makes sense to buy the finest quality you can afford. Originally, most navy blazers were double-breasted, from their uniform origins. Most men prefer the ease of a single-breasted style, because to look their best, double-breasted jackets must remained buttoned.

Optimally, it’s best to have a light-weight wool version for warmer months and a heavier cashmere or flannel for the winter months. Silhouettes are so much slimmer and more refined in cut than they were years ago. You can appear several pounds thinner just by taking the leap. Merely altering your old blazer will not do the trick. The shoulder line will be broader and will not tailor well. It’s worth every penny to update your navy blazer if it is more than a few years old.

Personality can easily be injected with the choice of shirts and ties. Khakis or ivory linen trousers can replace gray wool or flannel in the spring and summer.

A more formal approach would be a perfectly cut dark suit in a midnight navy or charcoal gray with a crisp white shirt, pocket square and a brown slip-on shoe. No tie required. It’s elegant and irresistible and gives every man who wears it the touch of je ne sais quoi that women adore.

If a man were sipping coffee and gazing into a window at dawn, either coming to or from me, that’s exactly what I would imagine he would be wearing.

Holly, meet your match.

xox,
DD

Accessories Before the Fact

Oscar de la Renta Sable poncho available at Richards

Sometimes, after several season of building a stable of timesless classics, it can be time to take a breather from clothing and focus on notching things up with spectacular accessories, that will be worn often and will get many future wears.

This month WAG Magazine, asked me to weigh in on how to update a wardrobe with well chosen accessories. Here is my article from September's issue:

How to class up an outfit? Choose a great accessory
People always ask me how I resist the temptations that abound at Richards, working as the store’s personal shopper.

What I have learned is to make thoughtful purchases instead of impulsive ones. Like most women, I reorganize my closets twice a year. I won’t pretend I don’t dread it, but I won’t make a single new purchase until I have decided what I’m keeping and what I am giving away. (Glam Media published my biannual closet cleaning tips this past spring at http://divadebbi.blogspot.com/2012/04/divadebbis-suggestion-for-closet.html.) I strongly suggest you follow suit.

Once you have taken fresh stock of your wardrobe, you will be in a better position to see where the holes are. If you are aware of upcoming events, you can also prepare to make purchases for them if necessary. Frequently, my clients email me their event schedules, so I can keep my eyes open for clothes and accessories that will suit their needs. Sometimes it’s simply a matter of adding an Oscar de la Renta fur shrug, a great pair of Jimmy Choos, a new evening bag or a Loro Piana shawl.

In years prior, when the economy slowed down, lipstick sales would spike. Nowadays, accessories’ sales do. According to a recent article in The New York Times Style section (“Accessories Are Hot for Retailers and Fashion Students,” Aug. 9), some women are choosing to invest in new accessories to punch up head-to-toe black outfits and previous purchases, in the hopes no one will notice their recycled ready-to-wear.

I can’t say it’s not a viable plan.

A beautifully crafted accessory is often the thing others notice first. Certain pieces, like Monica Rich Kosann’s charm bracelets, are often conversation starters.

As Monica herself told me, “My charm bracelets were inspired by Jackie Kennedy Onassis and the Duchess of Windsor. My vision was to take this classic bracelet and recreate it with a modern approach. Each charm is incredibly personal, so no two bracelets are ever the same. That’s my definition of bespoke luxury”.

In addition to her well-known “image cases” for photos, Monica’s charms include continents, planets, stars, hearts, clovers, animals, sayings and sentiments.

“In essence, (a charm bracelet) tells the story of a woman’s life”.

I quite love this. This is an investment accessory that can be worn with pleasure every day, with everything from jeans to a ball skirt. It’s also something that isn’t finite. New charms are often purchased as gifts to commemorate births, trips and other milestones of a life well-lived, in progress.

Another must-have accessory for many women is a new handbag. Carrying one is a personal luxury that will add panache to anything you are wearing and an investment that pays off every day that you carry it.

If I am deciding between a dress and a bag, the bag will usually win. It’s not that I won’t enjoy the dress (often for years to come). But in terms of wear, it will just be one of many things that may get rotated in once every two months. By comparison, I may use the bag every day for a full season.

Some handbag seasons are better than others. A few years back, bags were heavily ornamented with hardware. It was an acquired taste that also required good biceps. This fall, bags are whistle-clean. I will have a hard time deciding between gorgeous offerings from YSL, Chloe, Loro Piana, Reed Krakoff, Valentino, Tods and Akris.

Whatever you choose to add – a bracelet, belt, cashmere cape, fur shrug, boots, tri-tone suede platforms or a new handbag – make sure you select things that coordinate with existing favorites. Care for them well, and they will be yours to enjoy not just this season but in the years ahead.